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Wedded to the City: Triumphal Entries into Constantinople 9th-11th C March 2008
Dr. Timothy Dawson (Master Timetheus, OL
Roman forces continued to attempt to regain rome after the fall of Rome in the 5th C until the 12th C. The fall of Rome has been misrepresented by many scholars, who fail to take into account the fact that the Capital of the Eastern Roman Empire had already been transferred to Constantinople. Upon the transfer of the capital to Constantinople, Rome became increasingly less important in terms of government, economics and society.
Members of the court attended, on average, 2 ceremonies per day. These ceremonies required certain regalia and dress, which were set out in the Book of Ceremonies. These ceremonies kept the gaze of the fashion conscious looking East.
The Book of Ceremonies is a manual of practices that contains 2 accounts of triumphal entries into Constantinople. There are also several pieces of pictorial evidence for ceremonial dress. The first is the Bamberg Tapestry.
The Bamberg Tapestry depicts Basil II and two "ladies". Mary Houston stated previously that these ladies were princesses of the court. Dr. Dawson puts forward that due to their bare feet they are obviously not princesses. They are in fact personifications of Rome and Constantinople.
Another pieces of pictorial evidence comes from the Book of Kings from the 11th C. This copy is held at the Vatican Library, ref # Vat. Gr. 333. This illumination shows the decorations used on the outside of tents. The roof is decorated with paintings of people. The valance is decorated with a vine design. Finally the wals are also decorated with paintings of people.
A third pieces of pictorial evidence comes from the Eisitêirioi for Agnes of France, ref. # Vat. Gr. 1651, and is from the late 12th. C. This illumination shows the marriage of a Byzantine Princess. The marriage tent is red with gold trimmings.
The manuals pay particular detail to military accouterment. The Emperor wore his robe, a sword belted at this wait, and his coronet. When processing with the military his coronet included an additional crest, mimicking the Roman red horse hair crest. He also wore ceremonial armor, under which he most likely wore his normal robes and tunics. It is noted that Constantine the VII wore divitision and Lôros in the mid 10th C.
Most people wore mainly white garment with gilded decoration and some brocade. An Arab visitor states the one emperor wore a robe decorated with 30,000 pearls and so much gold that he could not stand on his own in the garment. Dr. Dawson noted that this particular Emperor is known to have been particularly frail by this point.
The Tufa was the crown wore for triumphal entries. This is a normal crown with the addition of a crest. One such crest was made of gold and decorated to imitate peacock feathers. Another was ruby encrusted to more faithfully recreate the red crests worn by Roman commanders.
Civilians wore coats, very similar to Sasanian coats, with sleeves that can be worn on or off
Warriors wear épilôrikion, a robe quilted in a diagonal pattern. The upper echelon use opulent fabrics for this épilôrikion. The Imperial pattern was also used this pattern is illustrated below.
 
Note the white clusters are executed in pearls. This is my own drawing, based on the drawing shown by Dr. Dawson.
The Bamberg Tapestry also depicts the trappings of an Imperial mount. These mounts were highly decorative gilded comparison.
Upon reaching Constantinople the Emperor would dismount, press his forehead to the groun, remount, enter through the Golden Gate and great the city's high officials. These officials would present him with a miniature gold crown, which he would wear over his right arm.
By the 4th-6th C and onward, cloaks were no longer a part of everyday dress. They had been replaced with robes, which were much more functional as they did not hender the wearer's arms. Cloaks became ceremonial clothing only, at this time. Woman brooched their cloaks at the front, while men brooched theirs at the right shoulder.
Turbans became a standard part of male dress in the 9th C. Men would wear their hair hanging loose below the turban, average hair length for men was shoulder length. From the 10th C. army grunts would wear a turban when doing work out of armor.
The military coats are called, gounion and were silk on the outside. The gounion were stuffed "as thick as can be stitched". These sleeves still opened under the armpit and could be worn off. When wore off the shoulder, the wrist could be attached to the shoulder to keep it out of the way and provide extra padding to the upper arm.
Notes from the discussion before lunch:
Turbans
A woman's will includes lots of cotton headscarves in blue and green being willed to other women.
Imperial turbans would have been silk
Timetheus' turban is made of 3 mtrs of 90 cm wide cotton. He folds it in half and winds it on to his head.
Dr. Dawson has come across 4 terms for different shades of purple. Most of what has been found is called "false" purple, which was made using a combination indigo and cremes.  Leo the Wise, in the 9th C., legalized the selling of off cuts of purple fabric for trimmings.
Dr. Dawson's presentaton garb was based off several extant arments.
He was wearing 2 coats, on left open with the sleeves off, this one was made in a green silk brocade. The 2nd coat was slit from neck to waist and closed using frogs and pearl buttons. The hem is slit for riding and trimmed with purple trim decorated with small pearls. Under all of that is a knee length white kaftan and pants.
His boot are made of black leather. Black leather was made during the Byzantine era, by loading the tanning solution with iron and black oak gulls. Black was the nobility's primary color for boots, then brown for those just lower in class. Red boots were reserved exclusively for the Imperial Court. One usurper that was executed was sentenced to execution, because he wore red boots. His proponents dressed him in Imperial garb and put the red boots on his feet. He had been said to be tryin to remove the boots as an act to prove that he did not want to usurp the throne, yet he was still convicted and executed.
Women' footwear was predominately red, the restriction did not extended to women.
There were two factions within the government the Blues and the Greens. They didn't always strictly wear faction colors, usually they would wear faction coors on certain occasions.