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An enigmatic, late 9th C "shirt" from the Kingdom of Brycheiniog- Oct 2007
Francis Pritchard, The Whitworth Museum & Art Gallery, Manchester University
Presumably Linen though some argument on this
25 ends per cm both warp and weft
Warp Z spun
Weft S spun
From the very end of the 9th C
Plain Weave
Decorative stitching (needle work in silk (?) thread
worked at right angels
counted thread stem stitch- determined that this is not soumack during analylsis
Over 3 then under 1 from Right to Left
Dr. Pritchard states that this is probably done with a shuttle during the weaving
Another example of this type of decorative stitching:
Recycled table woven piece from 12th C tunic
The decoration on this example is thought to be earlier and in soumack
Ex.
11th-12th C Soumack on table woven ground 4 1/2 " wide the decoration consists of geometric representation of birds
1 female garment from Sutton Hoo
has soumack embroidery
from St. Cuthbert's  burial
silk thread
Shirt decoration design
incredibly hard to see
Line borders
top geometric trefoil border
Main
hexagonals enclosing birds
hexagonals are stylized vine scrolls
Examples from other Anglo Saxon crafts
8th-9th C Example of birds
birds in vine scrolls are found in limestone carving
8th C. Embroidered vines
Belgium
Silk on silk ground
Central Asian boy's coat
Examples of Lions
Tablet woven band from Shell (?)
9th C Silk
from vestments
Garment Construction Exs.
plaited gold stitches over seams
areas of reinforcement
Gored covered with stitching
Reinforced holes (tiny holes), barely big enogh for a thread
Brooching area
shaped with gores
cold be man's or women's garment
not sure where the decorated piece goes in terms of the garment
Garment is from Wales
Recent carbon 14 dating of Sasanian Riding coats recently done gives coats a broader range than before (440-670)