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Viking and Anglo-Saxon Textiles

I began a project, many years ago, to weave a set of Wickelbander. Admittedly I did abandon the project, due to poor choice of warp threads. Hopefully I’ll be putting this back on my to do list soon!  I did however do a bit of research before warping my loom. Here are my notes on Wickelbander.

From Peter Beatson

  • Extant samples vary between 75-100 mm or 3-4  inches  in width
  • Structures
    2/2 warp chevron twill with and without matching repeats (non-matching repeats is most common)
    2/1 warp chevron twill
    2/2 broken lozenge twill
    2/2 diagnol twill- this actually isn’t one I’m familiar with as twill is a diagnol in general, so I’m not sure what he means by this.
    tabby
  • Warps are z spun for strength and weft threads are most often s spun
  • unbalance warp to weft ratio, although he notes that the British Isles are close to 1:1
  • Reversal of weaving direction occurs between 6-10 warp threads
  • Colour combinations
    dark warp with light weft and vice versa
    Purple found in York and nearly all London bands
    Blue found in 2 London bands
    Red found at Elisenhof and Hedeby
    Yellow also found at Elisenhof and Hedeby

For more information on many Viking related topics visit this wonderful site.

Site Date Width in Inches Width Thread Counts (approximate) Length Colors found
York 17 warp/cm & 16 weft /cm Lichen purple
London 15-16 warp/cm, 13-14 weft/cm Lichen purple (nearly all bands, indigotin (blue from woad?)
Elisenhof 16-24 warp/cm, 9-19 weft/cm 124 cm red
Hedeby 11-21 warp/cm, 4-12 weft/cm 118cm, 102 cm red, yellow
Dublin
Unkown 2.379 6.1-12 cm
Damendorf 2nd C AD 105 cm
Bermuthsfeld 7th C  AD 292, 370 cm
From Wickelbander. Peter Beatson http://users.bigpond.net.au/quarfwa/miklagard/Articles/legwrpp4.htm#P4
Warps per inch 28.20512821
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